7 Things to Know Before Getting a Kingsnake

Thinking of bringing home a kingsnake? You’re in for a treat. These snakes are strikingly beautiful, surprisingly low-maintenance, and make excellent pets — especially for beginners. They’ve got that “danger noodle” look without the danger, and they come in a variety of patterns that mimic venomous snakes (which is why they often get a bad rep in the wild). But don’t worry — kingsnakes are completely nonvenomous and easy to handle with some basic training.

Here’s what I’ve learned from working with them over the years, and what I’d tell a friend who's considering one for the first time.

What Makes Kingsnakes Great Pets?

They’re small to medium in size (most top out around 4–5 feet), nonvenomous, and docile with proper handling. They don’t need fancy lighting or a massive enclosure either, and they’ve got this bold, confident attitude that’s fun to watch — especially when exploring their tank or climbing over branches.

They’re also stunning. Some kingsnakes mimic coral snakes or rattlers with their bold red, black, and yellow bands. It’s all for show, though. They’re harmless — but they can rattle their tails as a bluff, which adds to their dramatic flair.

7 Things You Should Know Before Getting a Kingsnake

1. They’re not dangerous — even if they bite.
Kingsnakes aren’t aggressive, but they can nip if they’re startled or hungry. Their bites are harmless, more like a pinch than anything serious. Still, you can avoid most bites with simple tap or hook training — a way to signal that it’s handling time, not feeding time. It’s especially helpful if your snake gets excited around food.

2. One species, tons of variety.
There are about 45 different types of kingsnakes, including the popular milk snake subspecies. Their colors and patterns vary wildly — some look like copperheads or coral snakes, but none are venomous. Pick a look you love!

3. They’re easy to care for.
A standard 30–40 gallon tank works for most, and you won’t need elaborate lighting setups since they’re nocturnal. Just make sure your enclosure is secure — kingsnakes are escape artists. I’ve had one climb a screen lid and slip through the tiniest crack. Lesson learned: double-check every latch.

Also, give them vertical space! They’re not arboreal, but they love climbing and exploring.

4. Feeding is simple but regular.
Adult kingsnakes eat once a week; babies need food every 3–4 days. Frozen-thawed mice or baby rats work best. Feeding live prey might seem “natural,” but it’s risky — even a small mouse can injure your snake. I always keep a stash of frozen mice on hand and thaw them before feeding.

5. Train them early with hook or tap cues.
Even calm snakes can get confused between your hand and their dinner. Using a hook or gently tapping them before handling helps them understand it’s not feeding time. It’s a small habit that builds trust and makes handling smoother.

6. Keep their tank locked down.
Kingsnakes are climbers and surprisingly strong for their size. They’ll test every corner of the tank, especially at night. Make sure there are no gaps or loose lids — and don’t assume your old snake tank is secure enough. I’ve seen them squeeze through holes that seemed way too small.

7. Always house them solo.
Kingsnakes have a reputation: they eat other snakes. Even their own kind. That’s not just a myth — it happens. If you want more than one, give each their own tank. Better safe than watching one become dinner.

Setting Up Your Kingsnake’s Home

Here’s what you’ll need to get started:

• Tank size: 30–40 gallons for smaller species, up to 60 gallons for larger kingsnakes. Rule of thumb: the tank should be at least as long as the snake and about half as wide.
• Heat source: Use a heat mat, ceramic emitter, or basking bulb to create a warm side (85–90°F) and a cool side (75–80°F).
• Lighting: Not essential, but a low-output UVB bulb can be beneficial.
• Substrate: Aspen, coconut fiber, or something like Reptichip works well. Layer it about 3–4 inches deep.
• Humidity: They’re flexible, but aim for 40–60%. A hygrometer helps you keep track.
• Water dish: Big enough for them to soak in. Clean it regularly — snakes are notorious for pooping in their water.
• Hides and climbing spots: Give them at least two hides (one on each side of the tank) and something to climb on — branches, cork bark, etc.
• Humidity box (optional but helpful): Especially around shedding time. A small container with damp moss does the trick.

Final Thoughts

Kingsnakes strike a great balance — they’re gorgeous, active, and easy to care for if you’re prepared. And while they’re not cuddly like a dog or cat, they do get used to being handled and can become surprisingly social.

If you’re new to snakes or just want a low-fuss reptile with a lot of personality, a kingsnake might be your perfect match. Just remember: secure the tank, feed responsibly, and keep them solo — and you’ll have a happy, healthy companion for years.