Essential Facts About Keeping Green Anoles as Pets
Thinking about getting a green anole? These little lizards are charming, low-cost, and fun to watch — but they’re not exactly cuddle bugs. I've cared for green anoles in the past, and while they're not the most interactive pets, they are surprisingly rewarding once you get their setup right. Here's what you need to know before bringing one (or a few) home.
What Green Anoles Are Really Like
Green anoles are small (around 5–8 inches long, tail included), active during the day, and love to climb. They’re often called “American chameleons” because they can shift from green to brown, but they’re not actually chameleons. They’re shy, fast, and not fond of being handled — so they’re better for watching than cuddling.
If you’re looking for a social lizard that enjoys interaction, a gecko might be more your speed. But if you're okay just enjoying them from outside the glass, anoles can be a joy to observe, especially in small groups.
One Anole or More?
You can keep one, but I always recommend at least a few females together — they’re quite social with each other. Just never house two males together; they’re territorial and will fight. One male with several females is fine if you have the space. A 20-gallon vertical tank is a good start for 3–4 anoles.
What You’ll Need to Set Up
Here’s your basic checklist for anole care:
- Tall Terrarium: At least 10 gallons for 1–2 anoles, 20+ gallons if you want more. Go vertical — they’re climbers.
- Climbing branches & plants: Both real and fake work, as long as there’s variety and places to hide.
- Proper substrate: Use orchid bark, peat moss, or perlite-free soil.
- Temperature control: Daytime temps should be 75–82°F (24–28°C), with a basking spot at 85–90°F (29–32°C). Night temps can dip to 65°F (18°C), but not lower.
- Lighting:
- A UVB light for 12–14 hours a day — essential for vitamin D and calcium absorption.
- A daylight bulb or ceramic heater for warmth.
- No lights at night — give them proper dark hours.
- Humidity: Keep it around 70%. Mist the tank twice daily and use a hygrometer to track it. A DIY humidity hide or box is a great bonus.
- Thermometer and hygrometer: Non-negotiable tools for keeping their environment stable.
Feeding Green Anoles
Their diet is straightforward but specific: gut-loaded insects like crickets, mealworms, or waxworms. Gut-loaded means the bugs are fed nutritious food before being served to your anole. Dust the insects with calcium and vitamin powder before feeding.
Feed 2–3 small insects every other day. Only use pet-store insects — wild bugs may carry pesticides.
Drinking & Shedding
Anoles don’t use water bowls. They drink droplets from leaves, which is why misting is so important.
They’ll shed about once a month. As long as humidity is on point, they’ll handle it on their own. Never peel their skin — if shedding looks incomplete, offer a soaking dish or extra humidity.
Health & Vet Care
Green anoles are fairly hardy if their environment is dialed in. Still, watch for signs of illness like labored breathing, mouth redness, or lethargy. Metabolic bone disease is a risk if they don’t get enough UVB or dietary calcium.
And definitely find a reptile-savvy vet before bringing one home. Not all vets treat lizards, and you don’t want to scramble if something goes wrong.
A Few Final Thoughts
- Green anoles live around 4–8 years.
- They’re cheap to buy (often under $10), but their setup isn’t — expect to invest in a proper tank, lighting, and accessories.
- They’re escape artists! Make sure your tank is secure from all angles.
- Daily care is mostly misting, checking temps/humidity, and feeding every other day — simple once your setup is stable.
So, is a green anole right for you? If you want a low-maintenance pet that’s fun to watch and doesn’t mind being left alone, they’re a great choice. Just be ready to put a little effort into their environment — it makes all the difference in keeping them healthy and happy.